We feature it in hidden europe 61 as the perfect outing for those venturing nervously forth after weeks or months at home during the Coronavirus pandemic. Join us on this classic journey past lakes and mountains. F rom the handsome waterfront promenade at Bregenz, it is infinitely rewarding on a clear day to gaze out across Lake Constance, tracing the north shore of the lake from the nearby border with Germany on to the island town of Lindau, and then on beyond the Tettnanger Forest to the hills above Friedrichshafen.
Away to the left Austria slips into Switzerland, where the south bank of the lake can be followed along to the castle at Arbon where in the 19th century scores of weavers were busily employed producing silk ribbons.
Our mission is a journey designed for those who, like us, have not fallen hook, line and sinker for the post-Romantic piety that gives almost unqualified credit to rugged mountains see our perspective piece on pages 10— Here we explore a rail journey which is pre-Alpine rather than truly Alpine. The emphasis is on expansive vistas, especially in the first half of the journey, but in the final stretch there is subtle change in perspective, swapping wider horizons for more intimate views of pastoral landscapes in the Alpine foothills.
It may not suit yours. In a perfect world, and we do strive for perfection in journey planning, one might start by taking one of the thrice-daily Eurocity trains for the short journey to St Gallen — merely because they are exceptionally comfortable Swiss trains and usually include a first-class panorama carriage which is perfectly suited to this kind of rail-based sightseeing.
But on the local services, you do need to change trains at St Margrethen, which is the first stop after crossing the border from Austria into Switzerland. Then the train to the Swiss border swings off to the right, affording a remarkable view up the great trough carved by the River Rhine.
